My Trip to Goa

I have never been attracted by the sea, sand and surf. Perhaps that is why Goa never appealed to me. Every time I thought of a holiday, I loved to think about high- rise mountains, pine scented air, tranquility, and simplicity. Goa, I thought is modern trendy and crowded. Not for me I thought.

I always thought of walking in the clouds in Gangtok or exploring barren yet beautiful land of Leh. On the distant horizon, I wondered about Land of Thunder—Bhutan. Coming from a hilly area, I was fascinated by the magnanimity of snow clad mountain peaks, serpentine roads, dhabas, and mountain streams. I could easily associate with these things.

Sea was a distant thing for me. It held no special attraction. Yet, one fine afternoon in February I with a friend was aboard Spice Jet to Goa. The reason - Manali, Musoorie, Shimla, Nainital- same old story - I didn’t want to repeat and was really looking for a break from the obvious. Two and a half hours later I was walking on the hot tarmac at Dabolim Airport.

Outside the airport, there was usual scene. Many taxi drivers and tour representatives were standing holding placards to receive the guests. I found mine on a white sheet in bold Arial type and confirmed if the guy is from the same place (Sea Pearl) where I’ve done booking. On re-confirming, he asked me to wait and he vanished to get his taxi.

The scene outside the airport was not very different what one is accustomed to any other airport in the country. Taxi drivers and touts wanting a slice of your spending in Goa. They promise excellent tours and recommend attractive places to stay but don’t come up attractive prices.

Some Gyan for the first time traveller
If you are traveling to Goa for the first time, request your hotel to send a taxi. If you want to travel on your own, there is a pre-paid taxi booth just outside the airport. It has a huge board with name of the places and taxi fare written. Pretty simple. I think. However, I insist you ask your hotel to pick you up from the Airport, as many of the hotels are located a bit off the road. Most of them are near beaches, so it becomes bit difficult to access them on your own unless you have some idea about the location.

The journey to Candolim

10 minutes later, an Omni Van stopped in front and I was on the road to Candolim. Omni vans are the commonly used mode of transport in Goa. Once I crossed the bridge over the Mandovi, I exclaimed – um it’s really beautiful. The Mandovi was on the left and there were coconut trees lining the shores. The ships sailing on the river made a picture postcard view. As we sped to Candolim, Goa felt like a quaint village minus the touristy tag. Along the way, there was no trace of it being a hugely popular tourist destination. It was so calm and simple.

My opinion of it being crowded and touristy was just a misconception (perhaps February is not the touristy season). On the contrary, it was like connecting to village life. As the Sun prepared to leave for the day I found people stopping cycles and bikes just to catch a football match on the roadside football ground. It made a pretty sight, similar to one, I had experienced long back.

The view from the balcony

The first thing I did after checking in was to get the view outside. A palm tree barely hundred meters was leaning on the left; beyond that there were three ships on the Arabian Sea lined and the yellow light emanating and kissing the waters beneath. I leaned over the balcony and patted my self for taking the wise decision of coming to Goa and choosing a room with a view.

The beach

I hate getting up early on a holiday. Yes, unless I’m missing something really amazing. By the time I got up – It was 10 am. The beach was hardly five minutes away from Sea Pearl. I headed to check out the beach. Walking on the sand was a nice experience for me. The sea looked awesome. I decided to check out the sea. Went close to the shore, removed my heavy Rebok footwear and took a walk on the soft sand towards Calangute. After walking for a kilometer I took a walk back and headed to the beach shack.

If Dhabas are big draw on our highways in the north India, it’s beach shacks, which take the popularity pie in Goa. The best part is the ambience, everybody is relaxed and seems everyone has a whale of time. I took a seat looking out to the sea. In fact almost all shacks in Goa have sea-facing seats.

Pete’s Shack Candolim: Thought of eating something light but took quite some time to decide what to order. Finally settled for two Orange Juice and a toast with fellow butter and jam.

The Cost:
Two Juice: Rs. 90/-3

Bread Toast: Rs. 20/-

Total: Rs. 110/-

Quality: Juice was ok and the Toast was Ok too

Service: Was good

Calangute and water sports

Once the battery was charged I was ready to explore the nearby beaches. Took a walk towards Calangute. It was the last week of February and the Sun was blazing even at 11 in the morning. At a leisurely pace it took us about less than an hour to reach Calangute. The beach was crowded as compared to Candolim. One of the reasons is its being hub of many water sports. The moment we reached there, guys taking tourists on dolphin watch, banana ride, water scooter, Para sailing…etc approached us. Here is what they offered

The first vendor

Para Sailing cost – Rs. 1200/- (for two)

Second vendor – Rs. 1000/-

3rd vendor- Rs. 900/- We refused;

Another guy asked for Dolphin Watch, here is the bargain story...

The first one: Rs. 500 (for two)

2nd: Rs. 300

We settled for Rs. 300/-, he handed us life jackets and insisted that we should wear. We were reluctant (it was very hot) and told him will wear it only when we board the boat; No..no.. he said, seeing you wearing these life jackets they (tourists) will see that they should not have to wait.

We agreed. 15 minutes later, the guy came back and said sorry, he could not coax other tourists for the Dolphin watch. We had to relinquish the idea.

The Trick: If you want to spend your hard earned money wisely- bargain is mandatory. Never ever settle for the first price quoted to you. It is better to test the waters by checking the same stuff with other vendors.

When looking for water sports – here is what you can do

• Don’t jump into the first offer made to you
• Observe and decide what sport you plan to enjoy
• Check the rates with different vendors
• Not be the first one to take an offer where multiple people are required
• Show your keenness when the boat is half full or when there are a few seats left
• You may be offered better rates than people already on the boat

We checked the trinkets and other stuff at the market upstairs at Calangute and walked back to Candolim. On way back, went to Appi’s Shack (Candolim) to get a bottle of mineral water. There were no tourists in the shack – siesta time- I thought. Just checked their menu card and we were tempted to order vegetable curry rice.

Here is the cost

Vegetable Curry & Rice: Rs. 65/-

Two Bottle of Mineral water: 40/-

Total: 105/-

Quality: Poor

Service: Average

***

As I saw the sun go down the Arabian Sea from my balcony, I prepared my self for a long walk on the beach. There is nothing that can beat a walk on the beach in the evening or late evening for that matter. I head out to beach. Here are three essentials that you must carry when going for a walk in the evening or night.

Torch

Stick

Mobile Phone

Torch is very handy as the way to beach is hardly lit. The only light that was constant was the moon shining brightly. Stick is very useful as there are many stray dogs. It’s just a safety tool and I didn’t have to use it even once in my whole tour. Mobile is just to stay connected in case of emergencies.

Goa is amongst a few top states where crime rate is low.This time I walked towards the Sinquerim, a few kilometers ahead is the Ship Libra (I hope I remember the name correctly) is stranding there for almost two years now and prevents view of the other side. On our way back we decided to have dinner and this time tried Arabian Shack (in Candolim too).

Here is what we ordered and paid.
1. (1) Paneer Peshawari – Rs. 65/-

2. (4) Plain Roti- Rs. 40/-

3. (1) Mineral Water- Rs. 20/-

Total Cost: Rs. 125/-

Quality – Good

Service: Fine

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The Road to Old Goa

Agnelo’s Shack is just two minutes from Sea Pearl and we decided to have breakfast. Here is what we ordered and paid

(2) Milk Tea- Rs. 50/-

(1) Cheese Prantha- Rs. 30/-

(1) Onion Prantha – Rs. 20/-

(1) Alu Prantha – Rs. 25/-

Total Cost: Rs. 125/-

Service: Ok

It took the guy about half an hour to serve our order. Tea was good but I could not find CHEESE in Cheese Parantha and the owner/cook forgot to add salt in Alu Prantha. Saw they have a few bikes. Asked if they rent bikes, yes said Agnelo manning the counter. We settled for a Scooter for three days @ Rs. 150/- per day. Paid Advance Rs. 500/- checked the scooter and tried my hand before hitting the road. Once I got accustomed to this gearless machine- we hit the road to Old Goa.

What to look for when hiring a bike/scooter in Goa?

You must carry a Driving License

Check the vehicle thoroughly

Any wear & tear bring to the notice of the owner

Insist on a trial

Must see all the papers- insurance, pollution, ownership…etc

Ask for Helmet

On way to Goa, lost direction twice once just after leaving Candolim, instead of taking a left turn, we took a right and found ourselves at the gates of Taj Fort Aquada. Took a U turn and headed towards Panaji. As we were barely five kilometers from Panaji (also called Panjim), took a wrong turn and foolishly were headed towards Mumbai!

On not very sure of the way we were going, asked a passer by and he guided us to take U turn and head towards Panjim. After crossing the bridge over the Mandovi, took a left turn and then right, and finally we were on the road to Old Goa. Old Goa is located 9 km east of Panjim and is World Heritage Site. The heart of Old Goa has three buildings – the Se Cathedral, the Church of St. Francis and the Archaeological Museum. Here are the places that one can visit when in Old Goa.

Se Cathedral: Dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria now only one of the twin towers survives

Church of St. Francis of Assisi: Built in 1661 is three tired with an eight-sided tower on each side

Archaeological Museum: Collection depicts the history of Goa before and during Portuguese period

Basilica of Bom Jesus: Located opposite Se Cathedral Complex, it was built by the Jesuits and hosts the relics of Goa’s patron saint

Other important Old Goa landmarks include

The Professed House

Convent of St. Monica

Chapel of St. Catherine

Church of St. Cajetan

Church of St. Augustine

Arch of the Viceroys

Though I did not find time to see all, have just mentioned for information. If you are not aware of Goa’s history and its churches it is wise to look for a guide.

On way back, we decided to check Panjim. The only prominent landmark, which is hard to miss, is the Our Lady of Immaculate Conception. Took a stroll in the market and finally returned to Candolim.

Have read about D’ Mello’s Shack in varoious fourms (I did scour the net before coming to Goa) thought of checking it for dinner. The sea was calm and the moon was full, as we made our way to the shack it looked packed but we found a table for two and made ourselves comfortable. Looking at sea in the moon lit night is something I treasure till this time. It took them quite a while to serve our order but once it was on our table we relished it and things moved pretty fast then.

I forgot to write what we ordered and what the cost was but I found the Shack a bit costly compared to rest on the beach but for sure it was the best in terms of ambience and quality of food served.

****

Anjuna Flea Market

Anjuna is up north from Candolim. I took my Scooty and started for Anjuna. Roads in Goa are narrow as compared to roads in the cities but the ride up to Anjuna was very pleasant with passing through small villages and quaint houses.

Anjuna was once an Arab trading post in 10th and 12th centuries. It is known for its hip parties and Wednesday flea market. By the time we reached Anjuna, the market was already buzzing with tourists and hawkers. There were all kinds of stuff right from shoes, clothes, spices, CDs/DVDs, and other paraphernalia. I found the rates exorbitant but some of the stuff was worth the prices mentioned.

***

Other Beaches in North Goa

Baga: North of Aguada, Baga is crowded with shacks, fishing boats and sun loungers. But the beach is clean and offers a good live music.

Vagator: Coconut trees, red cliffs and waves lapping the shore make it stunning.

Chapora: Best to catch the sunset at Chapora Fort. Adil Shah built the fort, who was originally known as Shahpora or Chapora.Saligao: 2 km east of Calangute, it is home to Our Lady Mother of God – a lovely white church built in 1873.

As I packed to brave the Delhi’s heat in the summer ahead, I made a quiet promise to myself - to return to Goa.